Waterscape

Walking and Pop-up Open-air Museums

Purton and the River Severn Walking around Purton on the River Severn is almost literally rather than figuratively a pop-up experience. The biggest riverine boat-grave in Britain: old boats and barges rammed into the river bank to try and keep it stable. And there are the boats: rusting, mouldering, skeletal and cadaverous, beached in a liminal half-solid, half squelching aqueous mud-scape. There they lie, some staring out mutely at the rushing river. Others are slip-sliding away to oblivion. After our trip in the Bongo, we drove back along the A38 to find a spot for the night. Where better than Arlingham? We camped at Weston Farm, right next to field after field of orchards, and field after field of medieval ridge and furrow: an open-air pop-up of corrugated pasture, and sea-waves of grassland rolling between and across the hedgerows (in a manner or manor of speaking). After a day’s walking near the river, we sat on the Severn’s banks, as the sun set, with Billy the horse a haunting silhouette against the red-streaked sky. We lay back and listened to the waters, stared up at the swallows, still high in the sky, until our reverie was disturbed by the pounding of feet. “Is the tide coming in or going out?” We said we weren’t sure. He said, “I run across the river near here.” This seemed improbable but who are we to doubt the words of a local: an almost strangely mythopoeic figure, redolent of ‘The Other’ in the walks, accounts and poems of Edward Thomas. Preoccupied by that quicksilver reflection, I forgot to ask him how had he learnt the safe route across this treacherous...
I Am A Navigator

I Am A Navigator

I was born in the parish of ———-, about the year brave General Wolfe fell at Quebec. My father worked on the new farms and fields of —————–. When wages were bountiful, he got 9 shilling a week. That went down to...

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From King’s Cross to Paddington by Canal

From King’s Cross to Paddington by Canal

My point of starting was a Basin. Goods, bales, boxes, casks and cases … As we entered the large gas-lighted, roof-covered yard, amongst a group of Warwickshire, Staffordshire, and Lancashire bargemen, dressed in their short fustian trousers, heavy boots, red lush...

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Bradshaw’s 1904 Guide

Bradshaw’s 1904 Guide

Bradshaw’s Canals and Navigable Rivers of England and Wales 1904 is a wonderful read. The prose searches for an encyclopedic series of formal and logical cross-references so as to eradicate any possibility of even the slightest ambiguity or lacuna. The result is...

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America

America

I sailed from Bristol with a witch’s hag-cough, Spitting phlegm on the ropes and rigging All through the Atlantic’s winter storms; The River Hudson brought no relief, Just fog and headaches as we made our way upstream. Our trade went well with the tribesmen, Stroud...

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A London Wave on The Regent’s Canal

A London Wave on The Regent’s Canal

A London Wave on the Regent’s Canal

William Blake might have written of Paddington:
“They groan’d aloud on London Stone
They groan’d aloud on Tyburn’s Brook’,
But this was in the days of the journey from Newgate:
‘Welcome to the Hanging Match next Collar Day … the Paddington Fair…
Watch them Dance the Paddington Frisk when our friends shall Go West…’
In short, these are Hogarthian streets, rather than a Regent’s Canal.

And this was in the days before the railways:
My Paddington train was delayed,
So I passed the time, walking past the old branch line bay,
To the platform end,
To listen to a blackbird
Herald the winter morn,
And watch the mists
Folding the hills around Stroud –
Fog hanging in the valley –
The patient passengers huddled on the platform,
Lamp-lit like a sketch from Boz
Or like a poem from Thomas Hardy.

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