Robin the Poet: Time Raft

Time Raft
Feet on the grass,
walking a steep track,
up to the cow grazed common.
A raft when I reach,
its level plain,
ferrying flowers,
over its rumpled turf,
and travelled tracks:
cowslips in spring,
knapweed and orchids in summer.
A raft as i trundle along needle slim ways,
embroidering the common,
a map of wayfarers ghosts.
Tinkers, drovers, gypsies,
all passed over this high common,
as if carried on a raft,
taking them down to the valleys:
Stroud,
Woodchester,
Chalford,
Brimscombe,
Slad.
A raft those limestone bones,
a million sea creatures of deep antiquity,
crushed into Cotswold stone,
desired by the clothiers.
quarriers tramped up here,
where i stand in a hollowed grassy scar,
imagining the horses pulling carts,
listening to the quarriers beating
out the chant of iron on stone.
Over this common land,
i travel as a butterfly,
from life story of one traveller,
to songs of creaking wagon wheels:
a pace that continues,
still today over the raft of Rodborough Common,

Robin performed this on Rodborough Common on John Clare Day – a day of collaborative reading and walking through the landscape.

Baxter’s Field: A Beggar’s Curse

Baxter's Green Photo
Baxter's Green Photo

A piece of parchment flew through an open window of the bus today and landed on my lap. It was entitled A Beggar’s Curse – I have tried to make a transcription.

If you build on Baxter’s Field,
Gainey’s Well will lift the water table,
Peasants will harrow your dreams,
Cut ridges in your anxious brow.

If you build on Baxter’s Field,
Weavers will riot in the night,
Stretch nightmares on tenterhooks,
Turn your eyes Stroud Scarlet.

If you build on Baxter’s Field,
The Slad Brook will burst its banks,
Flood your conscience with remorse,
Leaching stains of turbid regret.

If you build on Baxter’s Field,
Beware the Bulls Cross coach,
Jones’ goat, the two headed sheep,
Albert the Devil, Cabbage-Stump-Charlie.

If you build on Baxter’s Field,
Avoid Granny Trill and Granny Wallon,
But the squire will berate you,
And Miss Flynn will bewitch you.

If you build on Baxter’s Field,
Grass will grow in your pockets,
Celandine in your bank vaults,
Weeds in your account books.

But if you don’t build on this field,
Empathy will rain upon your garden,
Goodness grow within your heart,
And generosity in your soul.

Inundation: Past, Present, Future

Dunwich


We biked to Dunwich through reeds and windmill creeks,
That led through sluice and weir flatlands
To a shingle-scape of submerged churches:
Drowned Domesday town
Where All Saints, Greyfriars, the harbour,
Merchants’ houses, quays, wharves, inns,
Ale houses, overhanging upper storeys,
Pilgrims’ paths and thronged market streets,
Cowled ghosts, cursing mariners and bleached bones,
All drift with the North Sea tide,
The hungry shoals and eager crabs.

The Rodborough Fields Beggar’s Curse Suspended

If you build on this field,
Springs will o’er-turn your water table,
Peasants will harrow your dreams,
Cut ridges in your anxious brow.

If you build upon this field,
Weavers will riot in the night,
Stretch nightmares on tenterhooks,
Turn your eyes Stroud Scarlet.

If you build upon this field,
The Frome will burst its banks,
Flood your conscience with remorse,
Leaching stains of turbid regret.

If you build upon this field,
Grass will grow in your pockets,
Celandine in your bank vaults,
Weeds in your account books.

But if we stop you building on this field,
Then money will rain upon your garden,
Goodness will grow within your heart,
And generosity in your soul.

Steve Kelly: Rodborough Memories

Steve Kelly

I remember how you loved the Boulevards,
The spring-green trees, the shade of summer,
The array of autumn and the tracery of winter;
I remember how you loved to chat,
Out there in the front garden,
Pleased as Punch with all your building work;
I remember your laughs with your neighbours,
Bell and Frank and Phil and Colin and ad infinitum,
You had an old time music hall feel to your life;
I remember how you kept the home fires burning,
Tending to the wood and the hearth in the Albert,
That twinkle in your bespectacled eye;
I remember you out the back at the pub,
Fag in hand, pint by your side, rapier wit,
Flashing smile and tinkling laughter;
I remember our trips to London,
Old haunts in Highgate and Hampstead,
Literary talks in the Holly Bush;
Radical Rodborough resident,
Stroller in the lanes and across the fields,
Pondering by the waters of your beloved canal;
A baby in the Big Freeze of ‘62 to 3,
You saw the thaw of adulthood,
But we’ll miss you in the spring,
And every summer, and every autumn,
And every winter in the Boulevards,
In the pub, and in the lanes, and in the fields,
And think of you on the towpath,
By the waters, of your beloved canal.

Minchinhampton Common

Up a Holloway to Minchinhampton Common

 

A combination of a talk about the Common at the Subscription Rooms and a read of Robert Macfarlane’s book, “Holloway”, led to my cycling over Rodborough and Minchinhampton Commons in late May. There was a fine, soft rain, which the early afternoon light transmuted to misty gauze: perfect conditions for slipping through time on a pyschogeographical bike ride.
Macfarlane uses an etymological trick at the start of his book, with a visual epigraph of linguistic stratigraphy that reminds us of the ancient origins of many of our pathways.
                             Hol weg.
                             Holwy.
                             Holway.
                             Holeway.
                             Holewaye.
                             Hollowy.
                             Holloway.
So I decided to reach Minch via the holloway that leads from Stanfields, off Walkley Hill, along Kingscourt Lane. The path is tarmacadamised, but the bank on your right as you climb is particularly steep. Sycamore, holly and ash climb high with their thick, wizened trunks resting on thick, serpentine roots. Wild garlic covered the banks of this shaded, shrouded avenue; the leafy canopy above sheltered me from the heavy rain.  You are deep, deep, down in this Holloway, as you make the steep climb up past Rodborough Tabernacle.
Minchinhampton Common
Climbing beyond the manse, you meet the lane that leads on to Little London, just at the lane’s highest point, as it journeys from the main road, contouring beneath Rodborough Common. It’s easy to miss this topographical point at the junction, but it raises some two -pipe questions.  If this isn’t a coincidence, then what led this holloway to this highest point?
If the cause isn’t natural – say, slips of stone and rock, brought on by gravity, or water drifting away from the high ground, making for an easier path – then what human imprint determined this line? If we follow Macfarlane’s epigraphic stratigraphy and also our imagination, then perhaps we can conjecture something prehistoric. Tumuli and long barrows abound around Avening and Minchinhampton Common – could this be a Neolithic track to that sacred area? The holloway climbs straight up the side of Rodborough Common and then over towards Minch.
As I walked, I thought of the alleyway on the Cainscross Road, opposite the restored lake area by the Cainscross roundabout. It’s resolutely 19th/20th century as it curves between stone and brick … and yet. Could this deep-down alley have served not just handloom weavers but could it also have served medieval packhorses? Could it pre-date even that? We are near an ancient crossing point of the Frome there; we are also on a line that could lead up to the tumuli up at Randwick. How nice to imagine that this holloway and that alleyway once connected Neolithic sites at Randwick and the Minchinhampton Common area. And even if that isn’t so, such pyschogeographical musings travelling way beyond conventional evidence are good for the mind and spirit.
Minch is good for the spirit too: skylarks, rare butterflies, iron age earthworks, burial mounds, pre-Roman and Roman field systems, medieval rabbit warrens, dinosaur remains, charcoal pits (Black Ditch? Burnt Ash?)), coppicing of woodlands, anenomes, cowslips, George Whitfield, turnpike roads, a disused mine – and covering all of this like a baize tablecloth, a golf course.
It’s easy to ignore Minchinhampton Common, seemingly encircled by so many busy roads. But it’s an ancient landscape.  It’s well worth a visit, even in the rain. Bike or walk – but take a map for the naming of parts.
PS One of the speakers at the presentation about Minch pointed out that the common can only be re-imagined by placing it in the context of the surrounding landscape. It is only by observing it from the outside, as it were, that one can understand the inside: the jigsaw is bigger than the common.
So, I took a bike ride the next day along the old railway line to Nailsworth and on to Avening. The track opposite the school in Avening takes you on the outskirts of Gatcombe Park and on to Hampton Fields and Minch. The map indicates a variety of Neolithic remains and getting up on top gives you that ancient feeling of self merging with landscape and time.

LS Lowry and the Local Landscape

Let’s be honest, Manchester and the Stroud Valleys seem to be about as similar as chalk and cheese, or cotton and wool. When you gaze at a typical Lowry picture, all lean hunched figures and all tall lean factory chimneys, then the green fields and unpolluted rivers of Gloucestershire seem a million miles away. The contrast between the artistic depiction of these landscapes, however, is a connection worth pursuing. Where are the people in the Cotswold landscapes? In particular, where are the ordinary people? Where are the working men and women?

T.J. Clarke, in the Tate publication accompanying the 2013 Lowry Exhibition, points out ‘how little the landscape and social fabric of industrialism’ have appeared in ‘England’s recent culture’. Clarke sees this culture of the last 250 years as: ‘the cult of the countryside, the comedy of upper class manners, the dull decencies and resentments of the new middle classes, the lure of London, the grandeur and ambiguity of Empire’. It is, perhaps, the false dichotomy that has been placed between ‘Beauty’ and ‘Utility’ that has been a fundamental cause of all this snobbery and consequently empty landscapes.

 

Lowry and The Painting of Modern Life Book Cover

This illusory dichotomy is illustrated by Clarke’s inclusion of a 1928 Jessica Stephens review of Lowry. I choose just one sentence but I could have chosen many: ‘Pictures of struggling little creatures – human – hurrying, working, striving, in surroundings which do not conform to any accepted idea of elegance, sound uncompromising, and are – but may yet be beautiful.’ Wouldn’t it be a grand local tour if we could recreate such scenes? Wouldn’t it be just the thing if we could see people making their historic way to and from our mills?

At the moment, our Stroudwater worker-heritage is pretty well invisible. Industrial archaeology tends to focus on technology and techniques; industrial history tends to emphasise entrepreneurial expertise and lineage; landscape painting leans to the pastoral: where are the artisans? Well, they can be found on an eighteenth century of Wallbridge – there are some figures out by the tenterhooks, far in the distance in Rodborough Fields. But we need to bring them to the forefront.

A few years ago, I recorded some nonagenarians about their memories of Spillmans, off Rodborough Hill. Now, Spillmans is just the sort of street that gets ignored by the visual arts: a red brick terrace above the mills on the busy Bath Road, betwixt two pubs and with the old Co-op at the end of the street. The voices can be heard on www.rememberingrodborough but here are some of their recollections in words. How great it would be to see them in paint. Let’s start a Stroudwater School of Social-Realism in Art.

Old Tom, the Horse (For Irene Connor)

You knew all the horses,
Pulling the carts with their heavy loads
Over the cobblestones of Rodborough’s roads;
Coal and milk and spuds and beer and bread,
And, of course, the fishmonger,
With his basket on his head,
“What have you got for me today?”
They asked, whilst you watched
The horses and the dray;
But your favourite was good old Tom,
Good old Tom,
Loved by children –
But adults looked in horror,
As Tom, once more,
Lowered his head over fence, hedge or wall,
To munch approvingly on such rich pickings,
As cabbages and lettuces and leeks
And the green tops of turnip, swede and parsnip,
Then the especial delight of a rich, ripe carrot;
All those houses with veg growing in the front garden,
All the way down Spillmans.
Good old Tom,
He thought they were growing it just for him.

The Cobbler in Spillmans

You were the elves,
And he was the shoemaker,
Down there in his hut,
Below the alley-way in Spillmans,
Hammering away, nails into leather,
New soles for Christian souls,
Rat a tat tat, rat a tat tat.
Silver whiskers, bushy brows,
Mutton chops of snow,
You’d creep by,
Peer through the cracked door,
Standing slightly ajar,
Then tap politely, yourselves,
You, the little elves,
“A sprig for my top, Mister Marmot?”
He’d raise his head from his hammering,
Like a little gnome, himself,
Rat a tat tat, rat a tat tat,
This man born before the Crimean War,
Still mending boots between our two wars,
Tapping away as his pocket watch ticked on,
Rat a tat tat, rat a tat tat,
Until, one day,
He was there no more.
And you were no longer elves.

The Cobbler in Spillmans & Old Tom, the horse: I wrote these in the middle of the night after talking with Irene Connor, April 16th 2009. It was moving to think I had just talked to someone who had talked to someone born in the middle of the 19th century – a gap of 159 years.

Spillmans in the 1920s

More LS Lowry
Than rus in urbe:
Steam whistle hooters,
Gas hiss in mantles,
Rain streaks on the window-panes.
Flat caps bob in unison,
Stout boots clatter on the cobbles,
Bread and marg in your pocket,
A small army on the march,
Wife at the washing,
Spillmans Pitch,
Another Monday morning.

In conclusion. Anne. M. Wagner speaks of ‘The social geography of working class experience’ in the Tate publication; she mentions historian Stephen Constantine’s correct perspective on working class life in the majority of the 20th century: life was lived out publicly, in the streets. The recollections above show this. Where is the Stroudwater Lowry?

Rodborough Fields: A Curse

A piece of parchment flew through an open window of the number 14 ‘bus today and landed on my lap. It was entitled A BEGGAR’S CURSE. I have made a transcription.

If you build on this field,
Springs will o’er-turn your water table,
Peasants will harrow your dreams,
Cut ridges in your anxious brow.

If you build on this field,
Weavers will riot in the night,
Stretch nightmares on tenterhooks,
Turn your eyes Stroud Scarlet.

If you build on this field,
The Frome will burst its banks,
Flood your conscience with remorse,
Leaching stains of turbid regret.

If you build on this field,
Grass will grow in your pockets,
Celandine in your bank vaults,
Weeds in your account books.

What can it all mean?
As soon as I had typed the last letter of this transcription, the sere parchment rose on an up-draught of air and flew out of the window.
An unsettling start to the day.

 

Finding the Source of the Frome by Bike

I can’t recommend this enough. Have a look at the pictures that will eventually appear on www.radicalstroud.org.uk in the Landscape section, but here is a recommended route from Stroud. This ride obviously involves quite a few climbs, but get off and push along the quieter lanes when you fancy it and that should provide variety. I took about four hours there and back from Stroud, with breaks for walking, eating, photographing, musing and so on.

I went along Bisley Road to climb up to Stancombe and then past Camp and Foston’s Ash, to turn right towards Brimpsfield. Keep your eyes peeled for Climperwell Farm; just past that is a footpath into a clearing on your right. Here you find a well and a spring – one of the sources of the Frome. It is an absolutely exhilarating sight, for when you glance at the map you notice that there are tumuli in the fields above this spring. You have bicycled through time into a landscape with prehistoric meaning.

Brimpsfield is a medieval delight: a church set well away from the village, next to a motte, once the site of two separate castles. You can see water down in the valley below the motte and the map indicates springs down there. If you walk to the wall behind the church, then you are looking towards Nettleton, where springs also issue and feed the eventual Frome.

It seems a bit of a shock to see traffic hurtling along the road, when standing in such a medieval spot – but that road is, of course, the old Roman Ermin Street, running between Gloucester and Cirencester. There is a footpath going down towards the valley bottom in the direction of Watercombe farm, but I chose to bicycle – I think I might walk it next time. There are springs down there  – the other source of the Frome.

These two sources merge and the waters at Caudle Green are christened, as it were, the River Frome. Caudle Green is another delight – it was interesting to see how puddles were standing in the road below Spring Cottage, even though the recent weeks had been so dry. (I made this exploration on May Day – Underneath the Pavements, the Beach!) A climb up through Caudle Green (Stroud ‘bus service once a week, on a Thursday) took me back to the Stroud-Cranham road; I then descended towards Slad for Stroud. I think it better to return to town on this route: it is such a sustained and unrelenting drag up to the top through Slad; the Bisley climb is more abrupt, but shorter, and then you have the free wheeling freedom of the long drawn out downward ride to Slad and Stroud.

A great day out.

Searching for the Source of the Frome

This is, at this very moment of writing these words, a virtual exploration of the source of the River Frome. It will eventually become real, booted and begrimed, but until I get my head around Cotswold Green’s rickety-rackety ‘bus timetables, this riverine search takes place on the laptop on the kitchen table, rather than on (or is it in?) a water table. I know I have to get up to Nettleton, near Birdlip, and Climperwell Farm, near Brimpsfield: what watery poetry is contained within these names! Two groups of springs issuing forth in ‘Nettle-ton’ and ‘Climper-well’, near ‘Brim-(p)sfield’.
These two trickling lines join together at Caudle Green, near Miserden, where the water is honoured with the name, ‘Frome’. For some, ‘Frome’ is derived from the Celtic river-word, ‘fram’; this certainly seems to make sense along what was once also called the Stroudwater, with Frampton, Framilode, Fraherne and so on. Do we walk this river in the company of shadowy, dripping and muddied dark-age ghosts?
Whatever. But it is certainly a beguilingly deceptive river as it drops down to Sapperton, disappearing, as it does, at times. No wonder King George 3rd became confused in 1788, when he started talking to trees. It was probably his visit that year to the canal tunnel wot done it: where’s that river gone? It was here a minute ago.
But we are more interested in the origins of this river – its first cause, as it were; its ability to spring from nothing in a sort of duck and egg conundrum. I know that geology and hydrology help explain the pattern of springs; I understand that gravity and scientific laws explain why water flows in the direction it does. But, at the same time, isn’t there something magical, alchemical and beyond imagination about it all? The John Keats as well as Isaac Newton trope sort of thing; I’m not invoking a deity – just metaphorically standing jaw-dropped at the is-ness of it all.
For there we have the confluence of two springs, determined by the shape and content of sky and landscape, dropping down to Caudle Green. Here on a delicately balanced watershed, on the finest of lines, gravity’s scales of justice direct some water west via the Frome, to the Severn and the Bristol Channel; other droplets drift eastwards via the Churn to Cricklade, then on to the Great Wen and the English Channel. Conjoined droplets of water, slipping apart to opposite points of the compass, yet still conjoined by history and language: the Celtic ‘fra’, denoting a ‘brisk’ river; the Celtic ‘chwern’, indicating a ‘swift’ flow.
When I was a child, a popular junior school essay was ‘A Day in the Life of a Penny’; what about, instead, ‘A Tale of Two Oozes’?