Rodborough Fields For Ever

Rodborough Fields: The Curse is Lifted
A piece of parchment flew through an open window of the bus today and landed on my lap. It was entitled THE CURSE IS LIFTED. I have made a transcription.

As you won’t be building on this field,
Springs will no longer o’er-turn your water table,
Peasants will not harrow your dreams,
Nor cut ridges in your anxious brow.

As you won’t be building on this field,
Weavers will suspend their moonlight riots,
And the stretching of your nightmares on tenterhooks;
The turning of your eyes Stroud Scarlet is held in abeyance.

As you are not building on this field,
The Frome will not burst its banks,
For it has no need to flood your conscience with remorse,
Leaching stains of turbid regret.

As you will not be building on this field,
Grass will not grow in your pockets,
Celandine will not gather in your bank vaults,
Weeds will not spread through your account books.

As you will not be building on this field,
The beer will flow up the Albert,
People will wander the common,
Or walk into town, feeling the pulse of the earth.
The ghosts of Christmas Past will gather,
In the lanes and hollow ways and footpaths,
And drink a toast to the indefatigable defenders
Of Rodborough Past, Present and Future.

Thank you Mike Johnson and all the gang,
Where would we be without you?

Walking and Cycling: Bike or Boots?

Edward Thomas on Walking and Cycling
Richard Jefferies on Walking
Reflections on Psychogeography and Cyclogeography

Bike or boots?

It’s horses for courses sometimes isn’t it? It’s a question of what you fancy, or a matter of where you want to travel, or how far, or how much time you have: whether you want to wander across fields, or pursue a path along lanes, or up a succession of hills, and down the consequent dales.

This is how Edward Thomas compared the two pursuits in 1913 In Pursuit of Spring:

‘It was a still morning … But not until I went out could I tell that it was softly and coldly raining. Everything more than two or three fields away was hidden.
Cycling is inferior in this weather, because in cycling chiefly ample views are to be seen, and the mist conceals them. You travel too quickly to notice many small things. But walking I saw every small thing one by one.’

‘Under elms near Semington the threshing machine boomed, it’s unchanging note mingled with a hiss of the addition of each sheaf. Otherwise, the earth was the rooks’, heaven was the larks’; and I rode easily on along the good road somewhere between the two.
Motion was extraordinarily easy that afternoon, and I had no doubts that I did well to bicycle instead of walking. It was as easy as riding in a cart, and more satisfying to the restless … At the same time, I was a great deal nearer to being a disembodied spirit than I can often be. No people or thoughts embarrassed me. I fed through the senses directly … through the eyes chiefly, and was happier than is explicable … a foretaste of a sort of imprisonment in the viewless winds.’

Robert Macfarlane writes in the introduction to The South Country that ‘Edward Thomas was a compulsive walker’, and mentions Helen Thomas’ assertion that “His greatest pleasure … was to walk and be alone”, spurning roads, often walking in a circle for a whole day, without a map, “guided by the hills or the sun”. Macfarlane argues that Thomas prefigures the Situationists, ‘pioneering the walk as an art-act, as artefact.’

Helen Thomas wrote this in the preface to the 1932 edition of The South Country (first published 1909): ‘for him the most satisfying days were when he wandered far afield alone, rereading forgotten footpaths and hidden lanes, stopping at remote and primitive inns where strangers were rare … to Edward Thomas walking was not merely exercise … Nor was he … only the nature lover intent on observing … Nor was he only the aesthete … the beauty of the contours of the hills, the symmetry of the trees, and the grouping of the villages. Nor was he only the wayfarer meeting fellow travellers … talking … listening… Nor was he only the artist transmuting all this into words. He was all these and much more.’

This is Edward Thomas near the start of the book: ”I have used a good many maps in my time, largely to avoid the towns; but I confess that I prefer to do without them and to go, if I have some days before me, guided by the hills or the sun or a stream – or, if I have one day only, in a rough circle, trusting, by taking a series of turnings to the left or a series to the right … and to return at last to my starting-point … The signboards thus often astonish me … There is a wealth of poetry in them …’

Another Wiltshire walker is of interest here – Richard Jefferies in his book The Amateur Poacher:

‘Those only know a country who are acquainted with its footpaths. By the roads, indeed, the outside may be seen, but the footpaths go through the heart of the land. There are routes by which mile after mile may be travelled without leaving the sward … village to village, now crossing green meads, now cornfields, over brooks, past woods, through farmyards…’

And I conclude with a few lines from an earlier posting:

Psychogeography and Cyclogeography

I’m a great fan of psychogeographical wandering: I love the whole chronotope thing of getting lost in a landscape and drifting through timescapes; I love the whole Hazlittian and Solnitian walking and thinking at 2.5 miles an hour trope. I love walking, thinking, imagining and composing on my own.

But sometimes, the bicycle calls. The traditions of the Clarion Club beckon: a collective socialist exploration of landscape, history and conversation. That too has it place: a good old-fashioned bike ride. Or perhaps a bit of Mr. Polly, Mr. Kipps, Lucia and Georgino; or working class hero; or green locomotion.

But cyclogeography is a new phenomenon: it needs an e-bike around these parts. The freedom to pedal with comfort up any Stroudwater hill; the satisfaction of knowing that you can explore as many valleys as you wish; the exploration of all those precipitous dead ends that you would never contemplate on your old steed; doing in two hours what used to take four; in short, extending your pedestrian practice of psychogeography, through the praxis of cyclogeography.

November

 I used to loath November, but now feel quite nostalgic about the long lost fogs and mists of yesteryear: ‘When vapours rolling down a valley Made a lonely scene more lonesome’ – as WW put it in The Prelude.

So I am going to enjoy today’s fog with a walk remembering my mum and dad (my sister will remember their names at an All Souls’ Day Service back home), and with a spot of gardening, picturing them, as mum waited patiently for the frost to touch the parsnips, ready for dad to dig for Christmas Dinner.

Mum used to love Thomas Hood’s November poem and I wish I could find the copy she wrote out for me on lined notepaper all those years ago. But here is the poem copied from the inter-net and also the famous fog passage from Bleak House.

There is also a link to the walk linking Purgatory and Paradise (near Slad and Painswick) at the end of the passage from Dickens. There is nowhere else in the country with these place names so closely linked – an atmospheric walk for this month and time of year.

November

by Thomas Hood

No sun–no moon!

No morn–no noon!


No dawn–no dusk—no proper time of day–


No sky–no earthly view—

No distance looking blue–



No road–no street–


No “t’other side the way”–


No end to any Row–


No indications where the Crescents go–



No top to any steeple–


No recognitions of familiar people—

No courtesies for showing ’em–


No knowing ’em!



No mail–no post–


No news from any foreign coast–


No park–no ring–no afternoon gentility–


No company–no nobility–



No warmth, no cheerfulness, no healthful ease,


No comfortable feel in any member–


No shade, no shine, no butterflies, no bees,


No fruits, no flowers, no leaves, no birds,


November!

Fog everywhere. Fog up the river, where it flows among green aits and meadows; fog down the river, where it rolls defiled among the tiers of shipping and the waterside pollutions of a great (and dirty) city. Fog on the Essex marshes, fog on the Kentish heights. Fog creeping into the cabooses of collier-brigs; fog lying out on the yards, and hovering in the rigging of great ships; fog drooping on the gunwales of barges and small boats. Fog in the eyes and throats of ancient Greenwich pensioners, wheezing by the firesides of their wards; fog in the stem and bowl of the afternoon pipe of the wrathful skipper, down in his close cabin; fog cruelly pinching the toes and fingers of his shivering little ’prentice boy on deck. Chance people on the bridges peeping over the parapets into a nether sky of fog, with fog all round them, as if they were up in a balloon, and hanging in the misty clouds.

Gas looming through the fog in divers places in the streets, much as the sun may, from the spongey fields, be seen to loom by husbandman and ploughboy. Most of the shops lighted two hours before their time — as the gas seems to know, for it has a haggard and unwilling look.

The raw afternoon is rawest, and the dense fog is densest, and the muddy streets are muddiest near that leaden-headed old obstruction, appropriate ornament for the threshold of a leaden-headed old corporation, Temple Bar.

Walking a Metaphor: May 2013 on the blog.

 

From Stonehouse to Daglingworth and a Mystery by James Pentney

 

Turn To The Wall – a Daglingworth Mystery
or Pin The Tale On A War Horse
Hanging on the high wall that faces the canal beside St Cyr’s
church, a banner proclaims Afternoon Tea.
Alice-like
through a low arched door, lo, a lawn unfolds leading up to the Lutyens architecture
of Stonehouse Court, thankfully hidden from the main road, where the forecourt
draws be-suited business people and wedding party planners.
From the tea tables on the terrace the view of heights of
Coaley Peak and Uley Bury is marred only by late twentieth century brick development
on either side of the garden. We are told vineyards grew here in Prima Romana
days and the estate appears in Domesday as the property of one William D’ Ow,
cousin of William the Conqueror.
 The waiter indicated
a passage in the recent brickwork. “William the Conqueror’s horse is buried there.”
What? Surely not, yet a huge worked stone leans at an angle
with a carved cross, quite possibly Norman. How intriguing, just my cup of tea.
So to Daglingworth near Sapperton; “Have you seen the Saxon
stone reliefs?”
 “No.”
“There are three in remarkable condition almost modern.”
 “An influence on Gill,” observed one
who would know.
The stones were discovered during restoration of the Saxon
church in the nineteen century. They had been turned inward to disclose the
images of Christ enthroned, Saint Peter with the key of heaven and the
Crucifixion: An attempt to protect them from the vandalism of the Reformation?  Not so. The in situ archaeology means they
were hidden no later than 1100.
Look more closely at the faces of St Peter and Jesus and they
both have those lush Saxon moustaches. So what could be the story?
It’s Normandy circa 1035. Two boys, cousins both called
William. One called the Bastard, the other Ow. Perhaps because that’s what he
would cry when playing with his cousin. “Ow, you bastard.”
At the tender age of eight William the B succeeded his
brutal father Robert as Duke of Normandy. Thirty one years later he was William
the C, king of England.
 The psychiatric
diagnosis of choice for our time, OCD can easily be pinned on William by
historians, among others. What made him cross the Channel with his Norman
knights and war horses to put an end to Anglo Saxon England? Usurped by Harold,
having once been promised the throne by the Confessor?   Occupational Conquering Desire was the job
description. It goes with the territory.
Like all of us, he carried baggage and phobias from childhood
experience. Did something happen when he was young leaving him hating the
moustache? The Bayeaux Tapestry shows cavalier moustached Saxons routed by
round skin headed Normans.
Victory on Senlac Field, eradication of the Saxon nobility
and the redistribution of their estates to his Norman clansmen saw his cousin,
the knight that said Ow, get Stonehouse.                                        On
route to deal with Exeter on his trusty, battle worn steed, did he stop at
Daglingworth, where in the church Jesus Christ and Saint Peter supported the
moustache!
“Mon Dieu, zout alors … get them out of my sight,” he
ordered in Norman French.
That night at Stonehouse, the old war horse that had carried
him through the battle, lay down.

From the Severn to the Thames in an inflatable canoe by James Pentney

 

I walked back with Jim, from the Little Chapel at Rodborough Tabernacle, after seeing John Bassett’s and Paul Southcott’s Gallipoli performance, in mid-September. Johnny Fluffypunk was dressed in his customary Great War homage vintage gear and Jim was pushing his bike, clad in an illuminated white hat, under a starry sky and a waxing harvest moon. It was a typical Rodborough scene.

You’re a literary chap’, he said to me, ‘have you come across a 1913 book about travelling from the Severn to the Thames, through the Sapperton Tunnel? The last time that was done.’

I confessed that I hadn’t and our conversation turned to Jim’s journey of re-creation and re-interpretation. I asked Jim if he had kept a travelogue. Jim kindly agreed to send me through his record of his watery pilgrimage. It arrived the next day.

 Many thanks, Jim.

Readers, I am sure that you will enjoy this.

Stuart

Cycling down the towpath by the Stroudwater Canal

Pondering how no boat has gone from the Severn to the Thames

Since what’s his name … you know who …

Then there at Attwools by the old A38

   

W-hey  … W-hoo

A knu

spelt knu’

A k-blow up knu

In a very fetching shade of blue

And a kn-other knu

With paddles too

It was then I knew what I must do

Not for a hundred years, one assumes, has a boat gone from Sabrina,

the Severn, to Old Father Thames since, you know who. But …

I’ve a knu

A k-rubber knu

Not pea-green, lavender or blue

It’s true, a knu

A k-yellow knu

To paddle all the way is over due

Slipped into the Severn at Framilode

I launched the knu

k-plunk, k-plosh, k-poo

Stuck in the mud I lost a shoe

But not the knu

It’s no longer new

To paddle all the way to London Zoo

And see the gnu

And free the gnu

In the yellow knu there’s room for two

Me and you

Gnu and knu

And then we really ought to know w-ho’s w-ho

Thank you, beaucoup

It was announced war has been declared on rhyme in Stroud

True, no haiku, but a stand up in defense and tribute Michael Flanders

Hailku Hiking

In The Flower of Gloster, one of the last boats to plough the Sapperton Tunnel

and a book dating from 1913, the words of an old boy are recorded.

My big grandfather … the day the tunnel was opened,

he was walking down the towpath and he met a feller coming along,

and he said to my big grandfather, ‘where are you going my man?’

– to see the king.

I am the king,’ says the man and gives him a guinea;

and when he looked on the head on the coin,

I’m dommed if it worn’t.”

That would have been George III on 19th July 1788.

 “My first job” said a volunteer working on the towpath, “was clearing out Joe Price’s workshop. Heard of him?

He was the blacksmith who could hammer metal white hot.

Two of us struggled to shift his anvil and he just lifted it on his own

and he was in his eighties then.”

We are weak shadows.

It was the longest deepest widest in the world they say.

Twenty four shafts linked at the base. 

No record exists of how many died or squeezed into what is now the Inn

between twelve or fourteen hour days of digging out countless tons

of rock and soil by hand.

For two and three quarter miles the tunnel burrows.

Few ‘legged’ it through even a hundred years ago.

We are weak shadows of them.

If? “In the beginning was the word”

Before was there symmetry and silence?

There are no words in heaven,” a monk at Prinknash Abbey was heard to say.

Haiku uses words

      sparsely and in prime numbers

            that strike a tension.

Haiku disapproves of metaphor and frowns on trying to be clever.

It aims to realize “the eternal universal truth contained in being,”

an aim shared with stone letter carving,

where chasing, chopping and stabbing are terms used for the angle of the chisel.

Tip tap, trace the line

Chip chop, chase the curve

Sharp on diamond crystalline

Tungsten tipped and hold the nerve.

Wet and dry the splinters fly,

Stab to stop

Not quite alone

Between the chisel

And the stone’

 Good fortune led to collaboration with haiku writer and wildlife illustrator,

Paul Russell Miller (PRM), in the setting of his words as poetry in the landscape.

Haiku being a Japanese form often limited to seventeen syllables,

capturing an ‘instant of intuition.’

Among evening reeds

    the young heron’s lunge again

         brings gentle nodding        (PRM) 

Brambled lock relics 

       Tangle tumble to Chalford,

              add to the beauty.

 Chipping away in Gloucestershire on bits of stone,

an earlier project was on the broken slate of a discarded pool table.

Into it I carved ‘Song’ by the composer and poet, Ivor Gurney,

written before the Battle of Passchendaele where he was gassed in 1917

  

Only the wanderer

Knows England’s graces,

Or can anew see clear

Familiar faces.

And who loves joy as he

Who dwells in shadows?

Do not forget me quite,

O Severn meadows.”

(For a group early in New Year 2013 I referred to my grandfather,

who was lost in the battle cruiser Goliath on his birthday in May 1915.)

Bells Ring

Decades of mist lift to show the pain opaque in his eyes before he died.

 Was it his father he saw?

If he had returned, I don’t know how we should have coped,” he weeps.

Downed in the Dardanelles, in sight of Troy,

I have the tattered telegram and the copper medallion.

Isn’t there a First World War song

 “Something, something, something to the Dardanelles”?

The name resounds, Dardanelles.

It chimes, tolls echoes as the centenary looms, surfacing to be salvaged.

Scribble on the screen,

Start of a journey’s journal?

Not quite prose or poetry but a record, a log.

Adrift in the dark hours 

as light fluttered snow scattered.

 Where bells ring.

The ex-mayor and local Green councilor spoke of his uncle, a veteran of the War,

being tormented in the months before his death by the faces of those he had bayoneted. The witness made his nephew a lifelong peace campaigner.

As pilgrimage, the haiku hike, the Gurney journey continues in the knu (Ivor Knu)

and on foot.

  

 Ivor’s sonnet, ‘Brimscombe’ needed carving.

One lucky hour in the middle of my tiredness

I came under the pines of the sheer steep

And saw the stars like steady candles gleam

Above and through; Brimscombe wrapped (past life) in sleep:

Such body weariness and bad ugliness

Had gone before, such tiredness to come on me;

This perfect moment had such pure clemency

That it my memory has all coloured since,

Forgetting the blackness and pain so driven hence,

 And the naked uplands from even bramble free,

That ringed-in hour of pines, stars and dark eminence.

Wonder of men had walked there, and old Romance.

(The thing we looked for in our fear of France.)

There are still pines up the ‘sheer steep.’ 

At night the same ‘stars like steady candles gleam.’ 

High in arts and crafts the chapel of St Mary and the Angels is there.

It was commissioned by two nurses from the war.

Together they took holy orders and a community grew around them.

They lie buried together beside the chapel.

Sister Mary Stephen’s welcoming kindness encouraged this prolog, log

and maybe epilog.

Toward the top of the steep, edged into the charred interior of the hollow ash tree,

I finished All Roads Lead To France about Edward Thomas.

In the army he taught map reading and would have grasped at once the glimpse of the Golden Valley spied through the trunk, as would have his First World War contemporary, Gurney.

Down at Brimscombe Port empty post war factories echoed under cracked asbestos roofs. Volunteers and pay-back lads weaved wheel barrows around the mills

to lay ‘type one’ chippings and ‘five mil to dust’ aggregate on the towpath

recreating the gentle curves bordered with boards.

When From The Curve’ is another of Gurney’s war poems

When from the curve of the wood’s edge does grow

Power, and that spreads to envelope me –

Wrapped up in sense of meeting tree and plough

I feel tiny song stir tremblingly

And deep; the many bird pangs separate

Taking most full of joy, for soon shall come

The kindling, the beating at Heaven gate

The flood of tide that bears strongly home.

Then under the skies I make my vows

Myself to purify and fit my heart

For the inhabiting of the high House

Of Song, that dwells high and clean apart.

The fire, the flood, the soaring, these the three

That merged are power of Song and prophesy.

Framed in a tar soaked sleeper

The first of Paul’s carved haikus reads

   

What joy to receive

    from each towpath dragonfly

         its dismissive glance

Rebuilt now, the canal meanders around Capel’s Mill and the towering railway viaduct

where new pillars of concrete have been driven deep down.

Cocooned plastic bottles litter our layers of archaeology.

In an oblong of local limestone dumped on the, the broken moulding hint

of a once grander structure read,

       

On the sunlit bed

     one of those silted branches

           casts a pike’s shadow

The miles separating the great rivers join at Wallbridge in Stroud,  

the start or end of the Thames and Severn Canal.

In ‘canal fever’ days there were two companies, the earlier ‘Stroudwater’

ripples on from the new lock gates to the Severn at Framilode.

On the seal of the Thames and Severn Canal Company

Old Father Thames splices a rope with the Goddess Sabrina

Tentanda Est Via’ proclaims the Latin motto

– push oneself beyond our limits is the way to live.

The carving of the block at the lock was in time to see the Olympic torch go by.

The stone itself might well have been passed by George III on 19th July 1788.

At the foot of the staircase in the Museum in the Park the scene can be seen in an oil painting with a trow being towed and lines of red cloth draped on ‘tenterhooks’

strung across the hillside.

The Stroudwater drifts on down through ‘Ocean’ near Stonehouse and the Vale.

Why Ocean?

Perhaps because there was a basin wide enough for cargo carrying craft of the Severn,

the trows, to turn. Swans nest in the reeds.

The swing bridge has been replaced but two of the original stones were kept.     

One contrasts the creaminess of Cotswold stone with ‘Devonian’ or ‘Old Red Sandstone.’

    Ocean’s ageless wave

Standing still and timeless here

     In the Old Red Sand

The other stone is local, crumbly and embedded with shells.

The old bridge turned on the square hole in the centre that housed the pivot,

it is capped now with a marble tern carved in low relief to enclose a time capsule.

            Tern

    Turn         Turn

          Return

Here                  Here

 

  Hear             cry

        little Cyr    

St Cyr’s church squats across the water.

Dedications to the infant martyr are rare on this side of the channel.

Beyond, the M5 hums, the old A38 trundles,

the bridges of the Gloucester Sharpness canal swing

and the Severn, Sabrina, the silver goddess, the river nymph, curves.

MONO-LOG  (for 6th September to be performed at Capel’s Mill sculpture ‘In Transit’

I propose leaning a slate with carved monkeys on an A frame against the sculpture structure. The performer holds a chisel and hammer.

Beside him stands a more military looking figure – possibly me)

DISMEMBERED MONKEYS

We are just weak shadows

Tip, tap

Up the line.

Mid-summer’s day for me began with relief carving of these dismembered monkeys.   

Dismembered monkeys?

Chip chop,

Chase the curve.

Dummy mallet and chisel in hand, you can find me down along the cut that links the two great rivers.

Sharp on diamond crystalline

Tungsten tipped to trace the nerve.

Stones all have silent stories.

Wet and dry the splinters fly.

A previous carver carved them.

Cut into panels – dismembered,

they clamber over what had been the front.

As birds sang an idea came.

How are we, down here, seen by them?

Above song birds spy

     half remembered monkeys in

           the dappled shadows

Entombed here in slate,

    polished with oil and copper,

         almost caste in bronze.

Stab to stop

Not quite alone

Between the chisel and the stone.

Seen Paulozzi’s giant on guard at Pangolin where bronze is forged?

Sam Freeman made this there. Know him?

(end, then the other one  (me?) speaks ….. )

The unit I’m with? Guess.

Ready night or day. Kit packed.

Arctic, tropical, desert, underwater underwear,

Tungsten tipped chisels, diamond sharpened

dummy mallet – best carry a spare.

Few words needed

Drop a syllable at thirty thousand feet and we’ll there.

Lately some scatty poet, Ann Drex we call her,

flushed his last line. She was off on one.

Soiled, encrusted in crap.

We got it back though.

 

So now you know.

I’m with HER – HER

Haiku Emergency Rescue,

No one knows when the next haiku moment’ll strike;

but we’re waiting.’

Prophesy Prophesy

‘ … that Old Man River … ‘

Budda, Confusius, Pythagoras, Plato, Archimedes,  Aristotle,  Daniel, Elias, Elija, John the Baptist John the Evangelist John Glen, Jesus, Mohamed,  Geoffrey of Monmouth, Hildegard of Bingham, Roger Bacon, Leonardo de Vinci, Galileo Galilei, Gottenburg, Shakespeare, Newton,  Jenner,  Darwin, Brunel, Morris, Marx, Churchill, Ghandi, Turin, Dirac, Luther, Luther King, Dylan, Hawking, Mandella Malala…….

‘…  just keeps on rolling along’ – Paul Robeson

In his ‘Dreaming Time For The Witches’ Yeats explains “Sabrina was considered one of the three daughters of the mountain Plynlimon who arose one morning to make their way to the sea by different routes. Geoffrey of Monmouth described a princess who drowned in the shallows of the estuary – part of a far older tradition describing mythical journeys.

For tens if not hundreds of thousands of years offerings were made to rivers around the world in gratitude for good fortune. A Trojan connection has the granddaughter of Brutus, the grandson of Aeneus, drowned in the Severn, Snow White like, by her jealous stepmother.

Did Geoffrey of Monmouth’s Merlin foresee the Goddess Sabrina united with Old Father Thames to usher in a golden age? The writer of the ‘Heroic Poem’ in the 1770s celebrated the Act of Parliament for the canal and on 19th July 1788 George III was there at the Sapperton Tunnel. Then what?

SABRINA:  So there you are.

Wake up, wake up you silly old fool.

Get up Merlin.”

MERLIN:   Ugh, good Goddess, oh… I must have dropped off.”

SABRINA:   Only for the last two hundred and fifty years.”

MERLIN:     “I was tired. How are you and your other half?”

SABRINA:    That weak, male, meandering, mean, home counties, money grabbing, lecherous, filthy, old … Thames.”

 

Psychogeography and Cyclogeography

I’m a great fan of psychogeographical wandering: I love the whole chronotope thing of getting lost in a landscape and drifting through timescapes; I love the whole Hazlittian and Solnitian walking and thinking at 2.5 miles an hour trope. I love walking, thinking, imagining and composing on my own.

But sometimes, the bicycle calls. The traditions of the Clarion Club beckon: a collective, socialist exploration of landscape, history and conversation. That too has it place: a good old-fashioned bike ride. Or perhaps a bit of Mr. Polly, Mr. Kipps, Lucia and Georgino; or working class hero; or green locomotion.

But cyclogeography is a new phenomenon: it needs an e-bike around these parts. The freedom to pedal with comfort up any Stroudwater hill; the satisfaction of knowing that you can explore as many valleys as you wish; the exploration of all those precipitous dead ends that you would never contemplate on your old steed; doing in two hours what used to take four; in short, extending your pedestrian practice of psychogeography, through the praxis of cyclogeography.

This wonderful new Raleigh really is a revolution.

Thanks to eCycle UK in Stroud – great service and attention. I particularly thank them for allowing us to trial different bikes and allowing us to explore hills and Rodborough Common before making up our minds – and for being so diligent with the Bike2WorkScheme. 10 John Street. Brilliant. Thanks to Jacob Kirby and Chris Boosey – you couldn’t have been better.

Stroud’s Genius Loci Revisited: Springs and Streams

When I started this blog some three years ago, we also set up a website involving a collaborative approach to ‘Mapping the Local Landscape, Literature, People and History’. We started off in this vein, with a vaguely psychogeographical approach, looking at springs, streams, rivers and their impact upon our Five Valley social history. We were searching for Stroud’s genius loci.

Re-imagining the landscape’s mapping,
Envisioning an old-new cartography:
Erasing the blue of the motorways,
The red and yellow of roads and thoroughfares,
The lines of footpaths, byways, bridleways,
All those pale blue significations
Which denote tourist amenities,
Ignoring those black lines of railway tracks,
Cuttings, embankments, viaducts, tunnels,
The red squares and circles of railway stations,
Along the so-called permanent way,
Bus stations, power lines and pylons,
Radio masts, television masts,
Churches, chimneys, towns, boundary lines,
An alphabet of abbreviation,
And even symbols of antiquity
Are all immaterial to our search
For thin blue lines issuing from nowhere,
Where William Blake sees the universe,
In tumbling drops of iridescent water.

What euphony is there in the vowels and the consonants
Which mark our landscape with their litany.
What secrets of etymology and topography are revealed
When we tramp the land rather than drive the road,
When we disconnect the sat-nav and navigate
By the tracks that connect our ancient springs?
Cherington Springs, Seven Springs, Toadsmoor Brook,
Blanche’s Bank, Baker’s Pool, Frogmarsh Lane,
Snakeshole, Puckshole, Derryhay,
Tankard’s Spring, Dimmel’s Dale, Hell Corner,
Be-Thankful Fountain, The Combs, Severn Waters,
Well Hill Spring, Bubblewell, Troublewell,
The Bubbler, the Blackgutter, Spriggs Well,
Springfield, Springhill, Bulls Bank Common,
Sweetwater Spring, Stanfields Spring, Millbottom,
St. Tabatha’s Well, Cud Well, Gainey’s Well,
Then Verney Spring and Ram Pitch Spring,
Farmhill Well, Double Spout and Turner’s Spring.
Every name a history, every spring a name:
Reclaim the names and etch them on your maps,
Keep the traces of the past as lapidary reminders,
Of otherwise forgotten traces of sense.

Underneath the Pavements, the Beach!This approach has led to an eclectic gathering of writing in this blog, which is quite the idea, but I thought this a good moment to refer back to our initial focus as a group of walkers, writers and musers: walking rivers from their spring sources to their confluences. We have walked the Slad Brook as part of the Laurie Lee Festival; walked the Frome from Climperwell Springs to the Severn and I have just walked the Painswick Stream from Many Well Springs to the Stroudwater Canal.
There are records of these walks scattered through the blog, and it is a pastime that I heartily recommend. There is a thrill in discovering these spring sources: and a map, together with Jennifer Tann’s ‘Wool and Water’, will enable you to locate the sites of past, forgotten cloth mills. There is a consequently satisfying fusion of natural and radical history, as you walk, talk and re-imagine.
We intend to walk more of these streams, brooks and tributaries in a desultory fashion over the coming months. This rural approach will be counter-balanced by postings on urban Stroud, with the presentation of an alternative heritage trail for the town.
But for the nonce, here is a record of walking the Painswick Stream from source at Many Well Springs to its confluence with the Stroudwater. I caught the ‘bus to Cranham Corner and then made my way along Buckholt Road, and so into the woods on the spring-search. I then walked to Painswick , to Brookhouse Mill, taking about three hours or so and thence back to Stroud on the bus.
Notes:

  1. Buckholt Road used to be called Sanatorium Road – I have a recollection that George Orwell was there for a time.
  2. Many Well Springs is named Emmanuel Springs on the 1887 OS map.
  3. The dependable springs and limestone riverbed meant the stream powered 30 odd mills and it was nicknamed ‘the never failing stream’.
  4. Gustav Holst put In the Bleak Midwinter to music after walking in the woods, before returning to the Black Horse.
  5. Look for Woodside Farm, Cranham Mill, Mill Lane, Tocknells Court, Damsells Mill and Brookhouse Mill.
  6. The next day took me back to Painswick and down to the stream at Brookhouse Mill (after a detour to the Quaker Meeting House and the 17th century burial ground at Dell Farm).
  7. Look for Painswick Mill, King’s Mill, Skinner’s Mill Farm and Sheephouse.
  8. The valley gets a bit A46 noisy, so I made my way from Sheephouse to Wick Street, and walked into town with beautiful views opening up all around Stroud.
  9. Then descend to Stratford Park (and think about the name ‘Salmon Springs’), and pick up the stream again; follow it past Tescos, over the Cainscross Road at the bridge and thence to the canal.
  10. Jennifer Tann’s book lists all the names and grid references of the vanished mills – my favourite being Zacharia Powell’s Mill, SO 874099:
    ‘This was a small mill driven by the waters of a spring which enters the Painswick stream … owned and occupied by Zacharia Powell in the early 1820s … for auction in 1837 … reputed to have been demolished in the 1860s.’

It’s an invaluable book.

Grange Fields and Uplands

I like the way Uplands and Grange Fields meet:
It’s that characteristic rus in urbe Stroudwater feeling,
Where mill hands once trod the streets of the town,
Then courted in the fields on Sunday.

I like the way Grange Fields carries Stroud’s history:
The spring at Hawkwood, trickling down to Badbrook,
Where clothiers were once ducked all those years ago,
During the Stroudwater weavers’ strike of 1825 …

If you build on this field,
Springs will o’er-turn your water table,
Labourers will harrow your dreams,
Cut ridges in your anxious brow.

If you build upon this field,
Weavers will riot in the night,
Stretch nightmares on tenterhooks,
Turn your eyes Stroud Scarlet.

If you build upon this field,
Streams will burst their banks,
Flood your conscience with remorse,
Leaching stains of turbid regret.

If you build upon this field,
Grass will grow in your pockets,
Celandine in your bank vaults,
Weeds in your account books.

But if you build on brownfield sites,
Sums will grow within your ledger books,
Goodness will grow within your heart,
And generosity in your soul.

Orkney, Time and Tide

The calm before the storm in Scapa Flow:
Sunlight on seal-stippled water,
At the south end of Stromness,
Where our wharf once saw Atlantic archipelago mariners
Fill their casks not with rum and beer, but fresh water,
That trickled down the hillsides above the ness,
And so to Login’s Well, at the back of our cottage,
Where salty old ghosts gather together:
The south Atlantic crews of Captain Cook
From the Resolution and the Discovery,
As well as Hudson’s Bay scrimshaw seamen
(With Stroudwater scarlet to trade with the Iroquois),
Hoar frosted spectres from the Terror and Erebus,
Standing by the side of Ishmael, Queequeg and Ahab,
Staring at the Kaiser’s scuttled navy, and HMS Royal Oak,
Down there in Davy Jones’ locker, full fathoms deep.

But fiddles and accordions play in the streets,
As the herring girls, spirited by time and tide,
Gather down by the quay for the harvest
Garnered by the nets of the wide, wild ocean.

Sand martins sweep the sandstone banks,
Eider glide across the bay, gannets gull the eels,
Skuas soar above the causewayed Brough of Birsay,
Lichen glow on Pict and Viking stone enclosures,
While puffins ride the heights of Marwick Head.

Beyond the headland’s time and tide,
Lapwings and curlews cry laments
Across the lochs and fields
Around Skara Brae, Stenness standing stones,
Eynhallow Sound, the Broch of Gurness,
The Isle of Hoy, and the Ring of Brodgar.

Also, borne on the ancient wind,
The hammer and scrape, the hammer and scrape,
Of bone and stone on bone and stone.

The storm doesn’t arrive.

It tips and trips its squalls instead,
With runic rainbow arcs of colour,
Beyond conventional measurements
Of clock, chronometer or barometer.

The sun sets over sea eagled Hoy,
Then cloudshines
A path down Maes Howe’s passageway,
To open the gate for Neolithic wanderers,
To join us on the silver waters across the strand,
Where sheens of light and cumulus clouds
Dance to the music of time.

‘Landmarks’ and the Stroud Valleys (a local perspective on Robert Macfarlane’s new book)

Robert Macfarlane writes of topograms,
Descriptive signifiers of the landscape
That act as tiny poems, conjuring ‘scenes’,
With words that act as ‘Landmarks’,
Nuanced terms that evoke the uniqueness
And particularity of a landscape,
A lexis both descriptive and figurative,
Where words are much more than just ‘referents’:
A fusion of history, land and aesthetics,
A fusion of the intellect and sensuousness,
Of William Blake and William Wordsworth;
An exploration of localism and landscape,
An in-depth understanding and sensibility,
Using a ‘Counter Desecration Phrasebook’:
Not mere archaisms, but also a modernist
Multicultural lexis, with space for your own
Imaginative and self-invented neologisms,
‘A glossary of enchantment’
Rather than ‘landscape’.

So the next time you are out walking
Around Stroud’s hills, valleys and edgelands,
Check the map and scenery for any of the following
Gloucestershire, Cotswold and West Country terms
(And don’t forget to invent your own words too):
gallitrop (fairy ring); hope (hill); toot (isolated hiil); linch (small grassy precipice); pill (hill);
pill (place for mooring a boat); sill (the glassy fall of water at a weir); spout (spring);
plash (small pool; stank (dam/dammed pool); warth (flat meadow close to a stream);
scort (footprints of cattle, horses or deer); plim (to swell with moisture);
bray (hay spread to dry in long rows); jogget (small load of hay); frith (wood); brash (light, stony soil);
chissom (first shoots of a newly cut coppice); crank (dead branch of a tree);
eiry (tall, clean grown sapling); droxy (decayed wood); holt (high wood).
Now for some inventions:
severnset (view west to sunset beyond the river);
windridge (winter light indicates medieval ridge and furrow);
frost-furrow (ground frost indicates medieval ridge and furrow);
roof-rime (an urban air frost) …
This is work in progress on a landscape-lexis:
Oh brave new world that has such referents in it.
A glossary of terms from local citizens for whom English is not their first language to follow