A Stroudwater 1825 Weavers’ Riots Détournement

 

Wallbridge Mill ST 848050

Nathaniel Watts first introduced the flying shuttle here in the 1790s – the start of mechanisation.

 

 

Ham Mill SO 861032

Jennifer Tann Wool and Water: ‘Ham Mill was a focus of the weavers’ riots in 1825.’ 31.5.25 Edwin Perrin suspected of working for the Marlings at too low a price. When he was at Ham Mill, he faced the collective wrath of some 200 weavers. On June 2nd, 600-700 weavers marched to Ham Mill. One of Marling’s men ended up in the brook but the next marked man managed (with poetic (in)justice) to hide in the Counting House.

 

Vatch Mill SO 872066

June 3rd: 200 weavers, some of whom ‘held sticks over the heads of Mr Peter Wyatt and Mr George L Wyatt, and threatened to knock out their brains and to destroy the mill.’ The next day saw 3,000 gathered; unfinished cloth woven below rates seized.

 

Bliss Mill SO 893025 Tayloe’s Mill 892025 Tann: ‘Little survives of Bliss Mill, save part of the clock tower.’ The Company Arms/Coffee Tavern Chalford GL6 8NS Three gabled Cotswold stone building once linked with the East India Company. A Troop of Horse sent by magistrates after tumult at Chalford: the soldiers ‘were stationed between Blisse and Tayloe Mills and their horses were stabled by the Coffee tavern/the Company’s Arms.’ Weaving in the Stroud Valley during the 19th Century by A. Phelps.

 

Longfords Mill ST 867992

  1. Jones Graeme, Major 10th Royal Hussars, Bristol ‘…William Playne, Longfords Mill, Minchinhampton from Stroud visited on me this morning to report serious event outrages which had occurred near Stroud … I think it is my duty to make this communication to you, Sir, and to request that you should let me be furnished with instructions on the subject from His Royal Highness the Commander in Chief …’

 

Cainscross The lake at the lawn opposite Tricorn House?

‘The cessation from labour commenced on Friday 29th April and on the Monday following the weavers assembled in considerable numbers at Cainscross where they were met by several of the Manufacturers: but not coming to any satisfactory arrangement shuttles to the amount of several hundred were instantly collected’.

 

Break Heart Hill Stinchcombe Road Dursley GL11 6ER and Stinchcombe Hill and Nympsfield

Meetings of more than 3000 weavers were held on subsequent days on Break Heart and Stinchcombe Hills and on Monday last they congregated on Selsley Hill to the number of not less than 6000 … On each of these occasions several of their employers agreed to advance the prices but a number sufficient to satisfy the weavers not having yet consented to their terms another meeting was held on Wednesday last at

Nympsfield when deputations of workmen from several parishes attended and it was strenuously urged that they should resume their labour for those Gentlemen inclined to accede to the new prices. The majority however obstinately resisted this reasonable proposition until the whole of the Manufacturers had expressed their compliance and the business consequently remains unsettled. But it is justly due to the weavers to add that their conduct throughout has been orderly and respectful to their superiors and they gained general approbation by their quiet and peaceable demeanour even when assembled in the greatest numbers.’

‘Manufacturers presented a written request’ to Justices of the Peace for an address to the Home Secretary for ‘a body of Military to be stationed in the Neighbourhood to assist the Civil Power in protecting their property.’

 

Stafford Mill SO 859038 Hyde Court (Chalford) Brimscombe Mills SO 866024 Henry Wyatt & Co Vatch Mills Bowbridge Mills ST 857043 Ham Mills.

The ‘Woollen Manufacturers’ who signed this representation were William Stanton & Sons Stafford Mill SO 859038 Robert P Pelly Hyde Court (Chalford) Harris Stephen & Co Willam Lewis Brimscombe Mills SO 866024 Henry Wyatt & Co Vatch Mills Geo. Lewis Brimscombe Mills Jos. Partdidge & Co Bowbridge Mills ST 857043 Wm. Jn. Wood Chas. Glover Wm. Marling & Son Ham Mills.

 

Spillmans Court Rodborough GL5 3RU

Letter from the Justices of the Peace, Henry Burgh and Peter Hawker, to the Home Office. ‘…the weavers are soon become so violent that we think it almost impossible to have an Offender lodged in safe custody without military assistance … Manufacturers consider all their property in most imminent danger…’

June 15th: Henry Burgh’s letter to the Home Secretary: “on Tuesday the 7th large quantities of weavers, masons and others assembled and proceeded to many acts of violence, which obliged me to read the Proclamation against tumultuous assemblies.” The assembly did not disperse, however, “and having thrown stones at the Military as well as those who had come forward to assist the Civil Power,” the troops were “requested” to “disperse” the assembly “which was effectively done in a short time in as humane manner as possible.” Several were arrested and some “committed to Gloucester Gaol.”

He went on to say that he had printed a notice “to convince the People that the Combination Laws are not repealed and I have put it into execution against several Weavers and Masons for intimidating Workmen. The county is now quiet …” He adds that appeals for help, sent by the weavers to Wiltshire, the districts around Wotton-under-Edge, Dursley and Uley, have received no support.

 

Stroud

4.6.25 P Wyatt of Vatch Mills was ‘assaulted by a mob’ in front of the Magistrates Office. (Old Town Hall, The Shambles)

7.6.25: ‘the mob was as great as on the preceding day and committed many acts of violence. Some acts of intimidation were also committed by Masons towards others of their trade who had not struck for wages.’

Bristol June 7th 1825

‘Sir … I received orders yesterday morning … to detach one squadron of the regiment under my command to Stroud which was immediately carried into effect. I suppose it arrived at Stroud by 8 o’clock last night.’ T. Jones Graeme, Major 10th Royal Hussars

 

June 8th 1825 J.C. Wallington, Captain commanding detachment Royal Hussars: ‘the squadron under my command was called out yesterday evening to disperse a mob collected in the town, which proceeded to acts of violence. We accomplished this object with some trouble including the slash of the sword only. We made prisoners of some of the most disorderly, no accident occurred.’

 

“On the 10th of June a paper was vended at Stroud signed ‘The True British Weavers’ purporting to be a relation of events that had lately occurred in the Neighbourhood respecting the Weavers and the Clothiers – the paper had no Printer’s name on it – the vendor of the paper (Henry Beeseley) was apprehended and committed to prison as a vagrant.”

John Williams D.D. Minister of Stroud, Gloucestershire to the Home Secretary asking for clemency to be shown to William Fitting, serving three months imprisonment at Horsley with hard labour:

‘On the Saturday preceding the arrival of the Cavalry, there were about 2,000 weavers assembled in the Town, and a very large concourse of them, before the door of the Clerk of the Magistrates, demanding the release of prisoners … On enquiring, I found that the prisoners were dismissed respecting whom the tumult was made, as the aggression was on the part of the Master rather than the Men.’

Mr Holbrow’s fish pond Badbrook mill pond was Mr Holbrow’s fishpond in 1825. The road and bus station by cinema and Five Valleys shopping centre are there now

4.6.25 members of the ‘mob’ ducked a number of their opponents ‘in Mr Holbrow’s fish pond’‘

Saint Monday’, June 6th ‘at Stroud a mob of about 2,000 continued to duck persons in Mr Holbrow’s fish pond’.

 

Chalford

‘I despatched Lieutenant Dent with 20 men to Chalford … to protect a factory which the mob had threatened to destroy … This morning I have sent another party with the High Constable to execute warrants against some of the ringleaders. The town seems perfectly quiet today … The Clothiers met yesterday and agreed to give the weavers the increase of price they demanded. The Masons, Carpenters and Millwrights have also struck for more wages.’

13.6.25 The Gloucester Journal

‘JOHN RUDGE weaver OBADIAN GARDINER weaver ENOCH WEAR weaver NATHAN PEARSE weaver ENOCH STEPHENS weaver JAMES BAXTER jun weaver JOHN TURK weaver SAMUEL GARDINER weaver JOHN STEPHENS weaver JOSEPH HUNT weaver THOMAS HUNT weaver THOMAS STEPHENS jun weaver JAMES CROOK weaver AMOS HUNT weaver JOHN BARTLETT weaver JANO CORNISH weaver WILLIAM POULSON weaver

The above persons are charged upon Oath with having on Thursday 2nd June and on several successive days riotously and tumultuously assembled together at Chalford in the Parish of Bisley and Minchinhampton in this county and in Company with many others at present unknown committed acts of violence whereby several Individuals were much injured and the Peace of the Neighbourhood greatly disturbed.’

 

The Brook Nailsworth Bridge Street? The deepest part after the three steams have joined?

‘Saint Monday’, June 6th, saw weavers who undercut ducked in ‘the Brook in Nailsworth bottom by a large mob’.

 

 

 

Horsley Gaol (site at Priory Fields, Horsley)

George Fletcher Riot and assault 3 months Luke Robins ducked William Fletcher 3 months William Fitting aged & Peter Workman Riot 3 months Thomas Weir Riot and assault 3 months

 

Northleach House of Correction

Thomas Osbourne Who ducked William Clark, Also riot and assault 2 years William Pickford Riot and assault 12 months Isaac Nutt Riot and assault 12 months Joseph Mint Riot and assault 12 months

George Heskins Riot and assault 9 months Richard Preene Riot and assault 6 months

Radical Stroud is grateful for the support of UNITE 007 Gloucester Branch in putting on this and associated events, exhibitions, research, leaflets and more discursive or creative  writing. So grateful. Past and Present conjoined.

Thomas The Tank Engine 80th Anniversary

Fri 19 Sept– Mon 22 Sept ~ Events & Tickets                                                                    The Fascination of Railways-
A nostalgic evening in memories, stories, poems, music & song featuring a host of local writers, artists and performers with Stuart Butler, John Bassett, Crispin Thomas, Katie McCue, Andrew Budd, Mike Putnam, Trevor Simpson & Lyn Briggs. From the love and joy of that first train set and trainspotting escapades to traveling and waxing lyrical on the sights, sounds, speed, and fascination of trains. Light refreshments in the interval.
Venue: St Mary Magdalene Church, Church Place, Walkley Hill, Rodborough, Stroud, GL5 3TX
———————————————————-
Sat 20 Sept 10am & 2pm (Free Event)                                                                                Walks to remember the Rev Awdry and his links with Stroud.                              In the company of historian Stuart Butler, Lady Hatt (wife of Sir Topham Hatt) & Katie the Riveter (ex-Land Girl/Wartime worker at Swindon Railway Works.) Taking in the Brunel Goods Shed Stroud, Dudbridge Hill & Rodborough Avenue – Awdry’s former home. All on pavements; wheelchair friendly and only moderately strenuous. Involves an ascent to the parish church at Rodborough. Readings on the hour by the Thomas The Tank Engine  stained-glass window.  Allow 2 hours.
Meet under the tree, Platform 2 at Stroud Station at 10.30 or 2pm.
———————————————————–
Sat 20 Sept 10am -4pm (Free Event) Fun-filled Community Day. 
Enjoy a Thomas trail, explore the art exhibition and Remembering Rodborough display, Take part in a community glass project. Little ones can delight in an electric Thomas train track and Thomas story time read by Sir Topham Hatt, Relax in the play area and enjoy refreshments
St Mary Magdalene Church, Church Place, Walkley Hill, Rodborough, Stroud, GL5 3TX
———————————————————–
Sat 20 Sept 11am (Free Event)
 Thomas The Tank Engine – Story Time with Local Poet Crispin Thomas.       With fun creativity activities .Paper pens & materials provided.From 3-103!
  The Long Table, The Sanctuary, Brimscombe. Mills Stroud GL5 2QN
———————————————————–
Sat 20 Sept 7.30pm £7.50 Thomas the Tank Engine Man – A talk by Veronica Chambers Veronica Chambers is the daughter of Rev W H Awdry.. A wonderful insight into the life and times of the author of the Railway Series first published 1945. Light refreshments during the interval. Venue: St Mary Magdalene Church, Church Place, Walkley Hill, Rodborough, Stroud, GL5 3TX
———————————————————–
Sun 21 Sept 2.30pm  Thomas The Tank Engine
 Themed Service led by Rev  Peter Francis 
St Mary Magdalene Church, Church Place, Walkley Hill, Rodborough, Stroud, GL5 3TX .
———————————————————–
Mon 22 Sept  Doors open 7pm. Free Event.  
Film Screening  ‘An Unlikely Fandom’ directed by Brannon Cartby                  Documentary delving into the impact of Thomas the Tank Engine and the adult fandom surrounding the popular children’s TV show ‘Thomas & Friends’. Explores the lives of fans who have built communities, careers and even found personal meaning through their passion for the series..

Venue : The Prince Albert. Rodborough Hill, Rodborough. Stroud GL5 3SS

 

 

September 4 Stroud Radical History Talk at Eastington

 

Talk on the 18th and 19th Century Radical History of Stroud and the Five Valleys at Eastington Village Hall (the one near the Old Badger) at 7pm.

Pay on the door.

Weavers’ riots, machine-breaking, the Chartists, food riots, the visit of ‘the most dangerous man in England’ to the area in 1797, Captain Swing, Stroud scarlet, imperial expansion, war and the transatlantic slave trade, the East India Company, transportation … and more.

I promise to put on a good verbal show and take you on a trip through time from the comfort of your seat. The Old Badger afterwards?

I’m currently writing something for page and performance about the 1825 Stroudwater Riots to commemorate the bicentenary: something new for future talks before the end of the year. I’ll then be spending the winter ensuring I have something ready for the General Strike centenary next May.

But hope to see you at Eastington in the here and now.

Stuart

Rodborough Fields and the Lifitng of a Curse

Rodborough Fields and the Lifting of a Curse

If they build upon this field,
Springs will o’er-turn their water table,
Peasants will harrow their dreams,
Cut ridges in their anxious brows.

If they build upon this field,
Weavers will riot in the moonlit night,
Stretch nightmares on tenterhooks,
Turn their eyes Stroud Scarlet.

If they build upon this field,
The Frome will burst its banks,
Flood their conscience with remorse,
Leaching stains of turbid regret.

If they build upon this field,
Grass will grow in their pockets,
Celandine in their bank vaults,
Weeds in their account books.

But if we stop you building on this field,
Then money will rain upon your garden,
Goodness will grow within your heart,
And generosity in your soul.

If we as a community buy thus field,
Then beer will flow up The Prince Albert,
People will wander the common,
Or walk into town, feeling the pulse of the earth.
The ghosts of Christmas Past will gather,
In the lanes and hollow ways and footpaths,
And drink a toast to the indefatigable defenders
Of Rodborough Past, Present and Future:

For then the curse will be lifted.

So raise a glass for the lifting of the curse.

 

 

Rodborough Fields Ridge and Furrow

Rodborough Fields Ridge and Furrow

When you walk down the footpath towards Kwik Fit,

You can see a clear pattern of ridge and furrow

(‘Like corrugated fields or waves in a land-sea’),

Particularly on frosty midwinter days:

A glimpse of a world before enclosure

Parcelled up and privatised the landscape

With fences and gates and hedgerows.

But there’s nothing in the landscape to tell you

Just what this pattern of ridges and humps

In grassland, sward and pasture implies,

Or connotes: no plaque or information board

To let us know that where we tread

There was a whole different way of carrying on

From what we regard as normality today:

The tyranny of the clock and the pursuit of profit;

Instead, there was a community

Based upon sharing and mutuality.

It wasn’t just the sharing out of the strips

Of arable land in the open fields,

Or the gleaning.

The tending to and milking of a cow.

The looking out for rabbits.

The gathering of fruits, berries and nuts.

The being satisfied with that you have.

The exchanging of surplus so as to just get by.

The lending or borrowing of tools.

It wasn’t just the fuel – wood, turf, furze, bracken,

Or the crops, gleaning or grazing that gave sustenance,

It was also the community of reciprocity;

The sharing, the mutuality

That fashioned a community,

And the arranged or happenstance meeting

In field, lane, pathway, holloway, baulk or common,

And the ensuing conversation

And sharing of the time of day

(‘Good morrow, Gossip Joan,

Where have you been a-walking? …’);

And ‘wasting time’ didn’t mean laziness,

It might have been incomprehensible to the elite,

But the lower orders could have an eye for the picturesque too,

You didn’t have to be educated to have an eye for the sublime:

John Clare textualized what many saw and felt:

‘How fond the rustics ear at leisure dwells

On the soft soundings of his village bells

As on a Sunday morning at his ease

He takes his rambles just as fancys please …’

And, in a way, we carry on this tradition

On Rodborough Glebe allotments:

‘Social events, plant and seed swaps, surplus produce for food banks,

local history events, a wildflower and wildlife area’

But now we have a chance to expand this vision and practice

With the community ownership of Rodborough Fields

So, when you have a spare moment,

Follow the footpath down to Kwik Fit

Through Rodborough Fields

And glance to your right:

Let your imagination run free

As you pass the ridge and furrow

Frozen in time and space in the pasture;

Walk with the ghosts at their toil

And at their joyful recreation,

Then, if you can, contribute to the future,

Both for yourself and the community;

Keep the continuity going

That runs from medievalism to modernity:

The community ownership of Rodborough Fields.

 

 

 

 

 

An August Sunday at Rodborough Fields

Sunday August 10th 2025

You know that picture of Stroud scarlet cloth

Stretched out on tenterhooks in Rodborough Fields,

The one in the museum,

The one on the information board at the canal at Wallbridge,

The one on the information leaflets used in this campaign by this group?

This cloth I have in my hands in almost the very spot depicted in that picture,

Went all around the world: traded with the Iroquois in Hudson Bay;

Used by the East India Company in its depredations;

Known as ‘Strouds’ by First Nations Peoples

Way out west beyond the Mississippi

Long before the wagon trains started to roll out way out west to California;

The colour that clothed the British Army as the map of the world turned red,

And the sun never set on the British Empire;

The colour favoured by many enslavers on the plantations in the West Indies,

To symbolise their control and authority and to deter resistance …

And so, this cloth I have in my hands doesn’t symbolise NIMBYism:
‘Not in My Backyard’,

Instead, it symbolises a site which links the local to the national

And the local to the global:

For where we stand here, is, as it were, and so to speak,

A hub of Britain’s history that for two hundred years coloured the globe red.

But now for one final piece of local history:

This summer, 200 years ago, saw the Stroudwater Riots,

When thousands of weavers combined together

To protect their standard of living,

For red not only symbolises the wealth and prosperity of this area,

It is also a symbol of resistance,

And we remember all of those traditions today as we stand here,

And we hope to protect them too

With the community ownership of these fields.

Thank you everyone for coming today.

Thank you to all who help and contribute in the future:

The future of Rodborough Fields is now in our hands.

 

Epistle to a Goods Shed

~ epistle to a goods shed ~

I would notice you barely in passing

you were merely a shell from the past

you stood empty like mills but now you are filled

with an energy longing to last

you were built and designed in those pioneer times

by Isambard Kingdom Brunel

you are one of a kind and you serve to remind

of the skills he had mastered so well

and it’s said you’re the final survivor

of a goods shed in fine Cotswold stone

but you stood for so long like an ancient old song

graffiti’d neglected alone

your style it is Gothic and Tudor

and your roof is all slated from Wales

but it keeps out the rain and the sound of the trains

as they rumble along on the rails

where eight ancient arches adorn you

as you sit by this old railway line

this beautiful structure is breathing again

and may well be the last of its kind

and now I look round this old corner of  town

and thanks to endeavour and pleas

it’s no longer a home for the homeless

and no more is it down on its knees

yes I’ve seen it host poets and comics

I’ve seen it host many a band

I’ve got lost in its maze and seen crazy golf days

and watched stuff that I don’t understand

and I’ve seen it transformed over Christmas

to resemble some magical fair

and I’m sure even Brunel would have to admit

it’s a place with a great atmosphere

and I still always glance as I’m passing

it’s no longer just some old eyesore

may it always survive to enrich all our lives

and bring joy to this town ever more

c.Crispin Thomas

Friday 19th September 7.30pm THE FASCINATION OF RAILWAYS

Friday 19th September 7.30pm
 
THE FASCINATION OF RAILWAYS
 A nostalgic evening in memories, stories, poems music & song featuring  a host  of local writers, artists and performers with Stuart Butler, John Bassett, Crispin Thomas, Katie McCue, Andrew Budd, Mike Putnam, Trevor Simpson and Lyn Briggs.
From the love and joy of that first train set and trainspotting escapades to travelling and waxing lyrical on the sights, sounds, speed, steam and colour of trains
 An opportunity to also admire the beautiful Thomas The Tank Engine stained  glass window, made possible on his retirement by the Reverend W Awdry, creator and author of the Railway Series in 1945.
Part of a weekend of celebrations for the 80th anniversary of Thomas the Tank Engine.
Light refreshments in the interval.
St Mary Magdalene Church, Walkley Hill, Rodborough GL5 3TX ~ 7.30pm
Tickets: £7.50 Online from :
 
———————————————————————————–
 Saturday  20th September 7.30pm
THOMAS THE TANK ENGINE MAN
A talk by Veronica Chambers (daughter of the Revd WH Awdry – creator of Thomas) as part of a weekend of celebrations for the 80th anniversary of Thomas the Tank Engine. Light refreshments during the interval.
St Mary Magdalene Church, Walkley Hill, Rodborough GL5 3TX ~ 7.30pm
Tickets: £7.50 Online from :
—————————————————-
Saturday  20 September 11am
 
THOMAS THE TANK ENGINE – STORY TIME
Writer, poet and performer Crispin Thomas reads a classic Thomas The Tank Engine story with fun creative activities in The Sanctuary. Part of a weekend of celebrations for the 80th anniversary of Thomas the Tank Engine.
All welcome from 3 to 103!  
 
The Long Table,  Brimscombe Mill, Brimscombe Hill, Brimscombe, Stroud GL5 2QN ~ 11am
 
Admission Free

The Fascination of Railways

The Fascination of Railways Rodborough Church Performance

 

A friend at Stroud Walking Football lent me his boyhood collection of 17 Awdry stories, given to him at Christmas and birthdays in the early 1960s. I emailed him with a few questions and observations, seeking out his memories. I listed all the inscriptions: from an uncle and auntie; from Grandma; with love from Mummy on his 4th birthday and so on.

Here follows part of his reply:

‘So, Stuart I have to say that your email has prompted quite an emotional recall. You have highlighted some things from my early life that I had forgotten about.

I was born in September 1958 so would think that my first book was purchased by my Grandma in 1961. Sadly, she died when I was about 7 so I didn’t know her for long. She also lived in London so I didn’t see much of her.

Your reference to Uncle and Auntie Clarke is especially poignant as I had sadly forgotten the important part they played in my early childhood. I am an only child and unfortunately my mother was very poorly when I was around two years old and spent time in Mount Vernon hospital. Dad worked in London so Mr and Mrs Clarke, who lived next door, looked after me for some months as I remember. They were probably late 50s with a grown-up son and Mr Clarke worked as an Inspector on the railway, I think. They were really good to me at what must have been a difficult time and I am embarrassed to say that I had forgotten about it.

 

‘I think like most children my favourite was Thomas, although I did like the pomposity and arrogance of Gordon. Whilst my parents read to me in the early days, I particularly remember Uncle David visiting a couple of times a year and sitting on his knee whilst he read to me. He and my Auntie Joan were unable to have children and they were always close to me as their only nephew. David had a passion for railways and they lived in Sussex so when we went to visit a highlight was a trip to the Bluebell Railway. This was instrumental in starting my interest in preservation railways and over the years I have always enjoyed visiting them if we are on holiday and there is one in the area.

Well Stuart that concludes my memories and I am amazed at how much I have written. I hope it is useful and obviously let me know if you need anything else.

All the best with this project.’

 

I was so moved when I received this and it made me realise that there’s a lot more to the Thomas books than just text and pictures. I think the books are a version of the famous madeleine moments in Marcel Proust’s A la recherce du temps perdu (Remembrance of things past). Here’s the famous biscuit passage: ‘… as soon as I had recognised the taste of madeleine soaked in her decoction of lime-blossom which my aunt used to give me … immediately the old grey house upon the street where her room was, rose up like a stage set … and with the house, the town, from morning to night and in all weathers, the square where I used to be sent before lunch, the streets along which I used to run errands, the country roads we took when it was fine.’

 

And a jump in logic here, perhaps, but please allow me – I think the madeleine moments trope applies not only to the Thomas books but, for many people of a certain age, to railways in general. So let us test this proposition with extracts from

Roger Lloyd’s 1951 book, The Fascination of Railways

‘The curious but intense pleasure that is given to many people by the watching and the study of railway trains, their engines, and the detail of their organisation is both an art and a mystery. It is an art because the pleasure to be had is exactly proportionate to the informed enthusiasm one puts into it. It is a mystery because, try as one will, it is impossible to explain to others exactly in what the pleasure consists. The connection between the sight of a railway engine and the quite deep feeling of satisfaction is very real for multitudes of people but it eludes rational analysis.’

Mr Lloyd then transports is to a favourite bridge: ‘Once on top of that bridge a rather murky but for me a most real heaven lay all about. If no trains were coming through there was shunting in the Yard to watch. But trains were very frequent and they generally came very fast indeed, rushing at the bridge with a great roar, and crashing under it with a roll of thunder. I would stick my head as far through the iron lattice work as it would go and try to look right down the chimney. I never could, of course, but for long after there was a highly satisfactory smell of sulphur, and flying smuts which descended on one’s clothes, and the tail lamp vanishing into the distance. To that bridge also I owe the fact that I discovered the right way to view a freight train. It must be viewed from above the track, for then you can see what all the open waggons contain, and lose yourself in a maze of pleasant speculation about the extraordinary variety of goods which one freight train takes and make guesses about where a particular wagon has come from and where it is bound.’

 

‘But I have written so far only of boys and men. There are certainly more of them than of girls and women. But I once made the mistake of saying publicly that this railway interest “seems to be exclusively male.” At once I was rebuked, and by many people. There was the schoolboy whose mother found watching trains “such an amiable thing to do.” She liked their speed and colour, but her real satisfaction was in the ambling freight train with a small tank engine in front, because then she could think of it as a “dear little train.”

Then there was the vivid scene described to me by a man who had made a special pilgrimage to New Southgate in order to see a special excursion …’ [run by an engine brought out of retirement, Stirling’s 4-2-2 No. 1] ‘…and there he found ‘four alert girls, who were obviously watching the rail traffic. This was something new to me, and on some pretext or another I introduced myself to a very animated conversation … As soon as the girls discovered that I too was a locomotive enthusiast, they seemed anxious to impart the news of the day and in less time it takes to tell I was examining a beautifully written set of quart-sized note-books in which were recorded the number, name, type, classification, shed, and date when seen of every engine on the line. Besides all this these girls had other notebooks, which they kept in the form of journals, showing the engines at work on particular duties, the formation of the trains involved, and the passing time at their observation place on the lineside.

“Of course, you’ve come to see No. 1,” said one of them … Apparently they spent most of their holidays at this spot, and when I came to ask them how they came to be so interested as to keep such careful records, they seemed almost at a loss for a reply, as if they were doing the most natural thing in the world. In due course, No. 1 came along on her way back to London; wrist watches were consulted, and entries were made in the journals. “He was making about 70, I should think,” said one of the girls.’

 

‘There would be no difficulty whatever in demonstrating that the number of people who are fascinated by railways is very large and surprisingly various, and it therefore follows that there is something about railways which has the power to fascinate. The basic element of it is no doubt an affection for the steam engine, for I never met a railway enthusiast yet who could take the slightest interest in an electric train, or who does not in his heart regret that the diesel engine was ever invented.’

But, like all of us, Lloyd’s writing is conditioned by the time in which he wrote. His observations about electric trains were probably correct in 1951. But speaking as one who was born in that year and who lived through the demise of steam as a boy, I find that I can stare at an electric train and bingo! Marcel Proust works his madeleine magic and I am transported to a platform with semaphore signals with all the sights and sounds and smells associated with steam.

 

Zen and the Art of Railway Carriage Travel

 

‘To the lover of railways, travelling is an art. Like other men he uses trains as a convenient means of shifting his body from one place to another, but he makes this process serve other ends as well. He uses it to get the ‘feel’ of the line, to see new engines and recognise old ones, to learn more and yet more about railway working; and he hopes to get from all this a real and, deep pleasure. If his journey takes him by a route over which he has not travelled before, then his pleasure is intensified until it almost becomes excitement, and he knows that he will not read very much of the book in his bag. But all this is given to him in more generous measure by the norm or average of trains than by the exceptional or spectacular.’

Which is how it is for me on the Stroud to Swindon branch line.

 

THE SLEEPER

10.30 P.M. GLASGOW-EUSTON

‘… the most thrilling incongruity of all is undoubtedly the act of undressing and getting into a bed not in one’s own bedroom but in a train while being hurtled through the countryside at a mile a minute.

I feel sure that if they would openly confess what is in their minds, practically every sleeping car passenger approaches the train and clutches his special tickets with a real thrill …

But having parted with considerable sums of money … on the non-stop 1030 p.m. Glasgow to Euston, it would be just as well actually to sleep in it …

I actually got quite quickly to a light sleep too, which was marvellous for someone interested in railways. For the trouble is of course that people who have this infirmity are much too interested in what is going on to let themselves fall properly asleep. My own Waterloo is the battle for the sort of steady slumber which thank God, always blesses me at home, is to start wondering where we are. It is hopeless to let yourself do this on a line you know really well, for you start testing yourself to see if you can discover your whereabouts by the clues of sound alone. My light sleep is instantly dissipated by a slowing of the train and the changed rhythm of the wheels …

Why are we slowing? Is it a signal? No, for we aren’t stopping dead. Well, then perhaps we’re climbing Beattock. Now I come to think of it there was a lighted station a few miles back, and I suppose it must have been Carstairs. Yes, I think that must be right because I can now hear the engine laboriously and steadily puffing, and obviously we are climbing a long incline. It must be Beattock Bank. Or no! It might be Shap Fell. I might have slept longer than I supposed. If it is, then that lighted station must have been Carlisle. But then if it was we should have stopped for a minute at Upperby shed to change the engine crew, and I’m pretty sure we didn’t. By this time, there is nothing for it but to switch on the light and look at my watch. That settles it. It’s only just midnight, so we couldn’t possibly have passed Carlisle. This must be Beattock after all.

Well, now that I know that, perhaps I can go to sleep again; and in fact I do so at once, and, as the event showed I stayed asleep for quite a long time. What next wakes me is a sudden pressure at my feet as the train swings round a curve … Then where are we? … Once more I am comfortably dozing, when we swing round another curve, over many points, and pass a busy engine shed … I get up, slide the louvre from the window and look out … Preston … I must have steadily slept the whole way from Beattock and missed Carlisle altogether.

Having thoroughly yielded to this nosey inquisitiveness I really go to sleep this time, but even in sleep I am vaguely conscious of the geographical messages of noise. We rattle over a bridge. Obviously the Sutton Weaver Viaduct, so we are near Warrington. A little later comes the characteristically cavernous sound of Crewe … Then comes a station where a train thunders over our heads as we pass beneath it – probably Lichfield, or it might be Tamworth. Either way it is nowhere near time for that cup of tea which the attendant is going to bring as we run through Bletchley, so go to sleep again … And oddly enough I do so, for I hear nothing whatever of Rigby or Crick Tunnel, or the noisy cutting where the line from Northampton joins us.

The next thing I know is the attendant’s knock, and a cup of tea … The night is far spent and the day is at hand: the full light has already come.  But the mist is not yet lifted from the fields, and, sitting on the bed and then slowly shaving while watching the countryside slip past, one can see the sun gently dissolving the low cloud of vapour … Not until Willesden does that magic fade, but then before there is time to regret its passing we are running by Camden engine sheds … It is the journey’s end, for in a moment we are running into platform 3 at Euston at 7.30 …’

 

Finally, in passing I note that the conclusion to his book appears almost to negate the earlier Madeleine-ism of steam and contempt for modernity:

‘Anyone who loves railways must admit to much nostalgia over the past. But in this, as in every other thing which has life in it, the dead must be left to bury their dead; and the living must pay a seemly reverence to the dead, but look to the future.’

 

 

Stations like Stroud (and Macbeth)

Stations like Stroud (and Macbeth)

 

They’re great theatre, railway stations, don’t you think? The platform as the stage with Life and Existence itself in the limelight. For it’s almost as if a state of beatitude is attained whilst sitting on that platform, regarding one’s fellow travellers. A temporary, fleeting, unification of opposites.

 

For there we sit and stand: colleagues on a platform about to share the same train and the same direction in life. And for that moment, as we glance at each other, assessing and guessing who we might be (our station in life as it were), we are unified by time and space.

 

But at the very same time, we are also cognisant of the fact that this unity is absolutely temporary – who knows where we are all eventually going, stopping and alighting? Who knows who we really are? What strange and ephemeral unity is this?

 

And then we stare at the platform opposite. All those people going the opposite way on a different train at a different time. We are divided by time and space: two railway lines divide us and a timetable too. Yet those passengers on the opposite platform are experiencing the same sort of epiphany too.

 

Somewhat perturbed by these earl morning philosophical reflections, I think a cup of tea might be just the ticket.

I glance in the mirror in the café and see Macbeth behind me, there in a chair, clutching a cup of coffee, whispering:

 

‘Life’s but a walking shadow, a poor player,

That struts and frets his hour upon the stage,

And then is heard no more. It is a tale

Told by an idiot, full of sound and fury,

Signifying nothing.’